Boot or shoe



(No Model.) 2 Sheets-Sheet l.

B. A. PILLOW.

` BOO'II OR SHOE. No. 367,118. Patented July 26, 1887.

iii-7 R N. PETERS. Pnuwmhagmphnr. wnhingm". n. c.

(No Model.) A y .2 sheets-sheet 2.

B. A. PILLOW. l

BooT l0R SHOE. No. 367,118. Patented July 26, 1887.

u mvg/vm? N. PETERS. Piwn-Llhcmpher. Washingon. D. (IA

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

BENJAMIN-A. PILLOW, OF RICHMOND, VIRGINIA.

BOOT OR SHOE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 367,118, dated July 26, 1887.

' Application'filcd February 28, 1587. Serial No. 229,229. (No model.)

` of Virginia,have invented certain new'and useful Improvements in Boots and Shoes; and I do' hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

My invention is an improvement in boots or shoes; and myv said invention consists in certain details of construction and arrange ment of the parts composing thesame, as and for lthe purposes as will be hereinafter more fully described, and form the subject-matter of the claims. y Y.

The object of this invention is to form a Water-tight boot or shoe that will be .serviceable, and, by conforming to the peculiar outlines of the foot, be comfortable'to the wearer.

For a betteruunderstanding of the details of construction of aboot or shoe when constructed according tomy invention, reference is had to the accompanying drawings, in which-` Figure l represents a bottom view of the pattern as cut from a piece of sole-leather to form the combined sole, welt, and counter. Figs. 2 and 3 are transverse sections on the lines w wv andava,V respectively, of Fig. 1. Fig. 4is a plan view, and Fig. 7 a side elevation, of the combined sole, welt, and counter as formed from the pattern shown in Fig. l. Figs. 5 and 6 are transverse sections on the lines y y and z z, re` spectively, of Fig. 4. Fig. 8 represents a transverse section of a lasted upper; and Fig. 9 a similar view showing the ends of the upper as turned up preparatory to applying the combined sole, welt, and counter shown in Figs. 4 and 7. kFigs. lO and li represent a vertical transverse and a Vertical longitudinal sectional elevationfof a boot or shoe as formed according to my invention, the same being formed with a double sole. Fig. 12 is an elevation, partly in section, of a singlesole boot or shoe. Fig. 13 is an enlarged detail of a portion of the edge of a boot or shoe, showing the manner of uniting the upper to the coinbined welt, sole, Src.

In carrying out my invention I. proceed as follows: From a suitable piece of soleleather the pattern A A (represented in Fig. l) is first cut, having the general outline of the foot. From the heel portion A of this pattern are now cut the four V-pieces, l 2 3 4, which leave the three radially-projecting pieces,ab c,whose edges are now beveled, as shown at a b c', as also the edges of the adjacent part A2,which are beveled to correspond, as shown at awhereby, when bent up into positionto form the counter of the boot or shoe, these pieces a b c and A2 will lap one upon the other, as shown in Fig. 4. Commencing, now, just forward ofthe heel part A', a cut or kerf is 'made into the leather, not quite midway of its thickness, as shown at d, Fig. 2, and about half an inch deep,

Vand extending all around the foot portion of the pattern and about half an inch from its outer edge, as shown in Fig. l.' rIhe result of this isthatthe edge of the foot portion of the pattern is divided into two parts, as shown at c andf, Fig. 2. After this slit is made in the pattern the edges thereof, as well as the outer` edges of the heel portion, are beveled or tapered, as shown at g, Fig. 2, in order to decrease thefthickness of the part c and pieces a, b, c, and A2 at their outer ed ge, whereby a neat and smooth union is the result between these parts and the upper when said upper is applied thereto, as will presently appear. The patternis now finished; and the next step is to form or shape the same into the desired outline, and .to accomplish which I proceed as follows: The pattern is first soaked in water or otherwise softened, after which it is placed upon a last corresponding to the foot ofthe person uponk whom the finished boot or shoe is to be Worn, with the surface of the pattern represented in Fig. 1 down and the plane surface against the last. VThe edges e of the foot part. and pieces A2 a b c of the' heel are now pressed and worked up and over upon the last,where, as the proper position is reached, it is retained by taeking along the upper edge until perfectly dry, when the pattern represented in Fig. l will have assumed the form shown in Figs. 4 and 7, having t-he appearance somewhat of aV low-cnt slipper with a Scotch sole. When perfectly dryv and hard,

the heel part or counter is permanently secured in position by a vertical row of stitching, as at g, engaging the laps of the bevel edges ai', b', c', and ci. The combined sole, welt, and counter havlng now been produced, the next step in the manufacture of aboot or shoe, according to my invention, is to unite the outsole, iftherc be such, and upper to said combined sole, welt, and counter, and to do which I proceed as follows: An upper, be it either for a boot or shoe, is iirst lasted in the ordinary manner, as shown in Fig. 8-that is to say, a thin lining, i, corresponding in shape to the sole of the last, is iirst placed upon the bottom of the last L. The upper u, having the usual thin lining, l, secured therein, is now placed upon the last and its edges drawn down over said last and secured by tacks t. After the upper has been lasted, the tacks I are carefully withdrawn, a few at a time, and the edges of the upperturned back, as shown in Fig. 9, but with the lining still remaining in position upon the last. At the Same time with this removal of the edges of the upper the lining, or it may be theinner thickness of a double upper when such is used, is secured in position by a few stitches extending through said lining and partially through the inner sole-lining, t, as shown at s, Fig. 9. After thus securing these parts, the sole-lining and side-liniug, together, which also assists to retain the upper in its proper posltion upon the last, the combined sole, welt, and counter is now placed in positionthat is, the edges of the upper being in the position shown in Fig. 9, the combined sole and welt is slipped over the same, as shown in dotted lines of Fig. 9-in which position the curved edges or boxing e of the combined sole, dsc., will lit against the lining l and the sole part A against the sole-lining i, as shown in Fig. 10. The edges of the upper are now brought down over the curved edge e of the combined sole, &c., and secured by a row of obliquely-placed stitches, h, through said upper, close against the angle ot the slot l and through the Iiangef, as shown in Figs. 10 and 13. A second row of vertically-placed stitching, j, is now placed along the outer edge of the upper and fiangef of the combined sole, die., when, after aiiixing the heel in the usual manner, the boot or shoe is complete-thatis, fora single-sole boot or shoe. Should a doublesole boot or shoe be desired, as represented in Figs. l0 and 1l, previous to the placing of the second row of stitches]` the outsole K is applied in position and secured by the stitching j, which in this instance passes directly through both the edges of the upper, combined sole and welt, and outsole, as shown in Fig. 13.

Among the many advantages of a boot or shoe when constructed as herein shown and described is that there is no direct communication by nail, peg, or thread from the outside of the outsole to the inside of the insole, so that the entrance of dust or water occurring through said nail-holes or broken stitching is prevented; and, because of the intervening strip, c, formed integral with the soie, being made to extend upward around the toe and sides of the foot, said portion of the boot or shoe is strengthened and rendered water-proof, for water to effect an entrance must first pass beneath two rows of stitching, then upward about half-way of the height of the upper, be-

tween said upper and the edge e of the conlhined sole, die., then down said edge between it and the lining, then beneath the sole-lining, and around the same to the foot.

A strong serviceable boot or shoe is the rcsult of this construction and arrangement of the parts, and the part that usually first breaks and becomes leaky-wiz., thejuncture of the sole and upperA is in this instance the strongest and less liable to break than other portions, and numerous soles may be applied as fast as one is worn out, or so long as the angef will bear the stitchingwhich 'flange takes the place of the welt usually employed. The curved edges e ofthe combined sole, Sie., being of stiff sole-leather and molded to the form of the foot, the foot, while it is held secure in its proper place within the boot or shoe, is permitted to assume its proper natural position, and is neither cramped nor crowded. Owing to the V-cuts and beveled edges thereof in the counter, said counter is caused to assume a curved form, as shown in Fig. 6, whereby the said counter closely embraces and clasps the heel, after the same is once in position in the boot or shoe, so that the slipping up and down of the heel is prevented.

Having thusdescribed my invention, `what I claim as new therein, and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States, is as fol lows, viz:

1. In a boot or shoe, the sole A A A, having the V-spaces at the heel portion formed with beveled edges which lap upon each other, and the groove or slit d, to i'orm the two separate flanges f and @around the foot portion, the one,c,bcing beveled, for the purposes speci' fied.

2. In a boot or shoe, the combined sole,welt, and counter formed of a single piece of soleleather,with the curved edge e, to form the boxing or end and sides of the boot or shoe, straight flangef, to form the edge of the sole, and pieces a b c A2, having bevel-edges integral with the sole to form the counter, substantially as described, for the purposes specified.

3. A boot or shoe formed of an upper with the usual lining therein, a thin sole-lining, a combined sole, welt, and counter formed with curved sides, and end e, and solc-iiangef, interposed between said upper and lining and se cured in position by stitches passing obliquely through the edge of the upper and angef of the sole, and an outer or second sole also secured in position by a row of stitches passing vertically through the edge of said second sole, first sole, and upper,substantially as described, for the purposes specified.

ICO

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boxing around the sides and end thereof, a kerf, d, and a narrow flange, f, at right angles 'to the parte, and upper u, secured to said angef upon the outside ofthe boot or shoe, 15' substantially as described, for the purposes specified.

4. .As an improved article of manufacture, a sole for bootsand shoes constructed with a wide beveled edge,'e, made to extend up the sides to form the boxing around the end and sides of the boot or shoe, a kerf, d, and narrow flange f, extending outward at right angles to the part e, and to which the upper is secured and counter formed integraltherewith,substantially as described, for the purposes specied.

5. The combination, in a boot or shoe, of the sole having a Wide beve1-edge, e, to form the BENJ. A. PILLOW.

In presence of OHAs. H. EPPs, AMBRosE BARRATT. 

